How to tone and brighten brassy hair at home
Earlier this year (in August) I went from brunette to blonde, and despite my misgivings about hairdressers in general I paid £200 to have it done professionally… Big mistake as I ended up with the dreaded Brassy Hair.
I spent £200 to have my hair and spent 8 hours in the salon chair, only to receive the following results.
The colour was incredibly brassy and it was unfortunate that I had an event to attend that night and so was unable to ask them to fix it before I left.
They had lifted my hair to a beautiful platinum during the process, although my tips were quite dark and orange. At this point, the salon should have toned my hair to even out the colour and remove any traces of brass. Unfortunately, what they did instead was dye over the platinum blonde which caused my hair to turn brassy all over.
The reason hair turns brassy during the bleaching process, is because hair has varying levels of colour which create your natural colour, and the lighter you go, the more orange and yellow that base colour is.
Which means, if you are stripping out colour, you are gradually removing these layers of colour, which is why bleached hair turns yellow and brassy.
Thankfully, brassy hair is only a momentary disaster, and can be fixed with a little bit of art school know-how, and patience.
Remember back when you studied art in High School you learned about the colour wheel, and how every colour has it’s constrasting colour? These colours were at opposites on the colour wheel, and always primary to secondary colours: red to green, yellow to purple, orange to blue.
And if we use this information we are able to apply the same know-how to balancing our hair colour, and neutralising brassy or yellow tones.
Now, you may be tempted to just apply another layer of bleach out of a box to lift that brass right out of your hair, but at this point, however, your hair is likely quite damaged, and has gone through extensive chemical treatments. Box bleach is notoriously damaging, so if you want to not only remove the brassy tones, but brighten your hair it’s best to do is very gently, and gradually.
After three weeks of gentle treatment, this is what my hair looks like now, in this gorgeous make-up free, blurry photo.
So what exactly did I do to turn my brassy hair blonde? Well, the main and essential ingredient when toning brassy hair is using a blue (for brassy) or violet (for yellow) shampoo. These will deposit small amounts of colour into your hair and help neutralise the offending colour.
Because I not only toned my hair, but gently lightened it to the levels I was hoping to achieve via a hairdresser, I also ensured I used a repairing mask throughout my at-home treatments.
Interested in what I did? Keep on reading!
How to tone brassy hair
- I saturated my dry hair with a gradual bleaching spray, combed it through, put it in a sleep bun and left on for 24 hours – I don’t use heat on my hair, so I let it dry naturally during this period.
- The next day, I shampooed my hair, applied the Hair Growth mask for five minutes, and washed it out.
- I then conditioned my hair, before applying the Protein Mask for five minutes, and washing out.
- After my hair had completely dried, I saturated my dry hair with blue shampoo and combed through. I left it on for 25-30 minutes, then rinsed and conditioned as normal.
Step 4 was the most essential in this process as this blue shampoo is what neutralised and was necessary for toning brassy blonde hair.
I did this treatment thrice over the space of three weeks, and you can see the huge improvement made from the original photo. My hair had been gently lightened to a brighter blonde, toned to remove the excessive brassy tones, and is soft and well conditioned.
All these products are gentle on the hair, and the two hair masks help restore moisture and protein that is lost whilst bleaching hair which will help improve condition.
Just remember, brassy hair isn’t a disaster! It’s just going to take time and patience and soon you’ll have the beautiful blonde of your dreams!
BANISH THE BRASS
BRIGHTEN THE BLONDE
xx Bry Jaimea